Telephone: (01792) 606566
Room: Office
Energy Safety Research Institute
Bay Campus


I am Professor of Coastal Engineering and a Chartered Mathematician whose research interests are coastal flooding and erosion, coastal morphodynamics, marine renewable energy and stochastic modelling.

I have over 25 years of professional experience in engineering consultancy and academia.
I am the author of over 300 peer-reviewed journal papers and conference papers and the textbooks:

‘Coastal Engineering: Processes, Theory and Design Practice’ SPON (2004, 2011);
‘Risk and Reliability: Coastal and Hydraulic Engineering’ SPON (2009); an
‘Hydraulic Modelling - An Introduction: Principles – Methods – Applications’, SPON (2010).

Areas of Expertise

  • Coastal Flooding
  • Erosion
  • Coastal Engineering


  1. & Modelling Extreme Wave Overtopping at Aberystwyth Promenade. Water 9(9), 663
  2. & Modelling shoreline evolution in the vicinity of a groyne and a river. Continental Shelf Research 132, 49-57.
  3. & Modelling 3D hydrodynamics governing island-associated sandbanks in a proposed tidal stream energy site. Applied Ocean Research 66, 79-94.
  4. & Annual down-glacier drainage of lakes and water-filled crevasses at Helheim Glacier, southeast Greenland. Journal of Geophysical Research: Earth Surface 121(10), 1819-1833.
  5. & Two-dimensional reduced-physics model to describe historic morphodynamic behaviour of an estuary inlet. Marine Geology 382, 200-209.

See more...


  • EG-M107 Coastal Processes and Engineering

    This module provides an introduction to the subject of coastal engineering. It provides an overview of the main physical processes that shape the coastal environment and the wider context of coastal engineering, together with the underlying tidal theory, wave transformation methods and sediment transport concepts. The programme will consist of a series of lectures and examples classes.

  • EG-M87 Coastal Engineering

    This is the main module on the subject of coastal engineering. The module provides the background for undertaking detailed design of coastal flood defences and coastal protection schemes. It covers random waves, tides and littoral processes, as well as some of the more commonly used design equations. It includes wider issues such as: the coastal planning regime in the UK and the impacts of climate change on design. The programme will consist of a series of lectures and problems classes to study worked examples.

  • EGA331 Coastal processes and engineering

    This module introduces the fundamentals of wave and tidal mechanics including linear wave theory, wave transformation, nearshore processes, theory of tides and coastal water level variations which are essential to coastal engineering. The concepts introduced here provides an overview of the main physical processes that shape the coastal environment and forms the basis of learning more complex coastal zone management, coastal zone processes modelling and coastal designs in Level M.


  • 'Climate change Impacts on Coastal Flooding and Erosion' (current)

    Student name:
    Other supervisor: Prof Harshinie Karunarathna
  • 'Analysis of the impacts of climate-related variability of the incident storm wave climate on shoreline vulnerability and marine renewable energy generation in Wales.' (current)

    Student name:
    Other supervisor: Prof Harshinie Karunarathna
  • The performance of beach mega nourishments in the UK (current)

    Student name:
    Other supervisor: Prof Harshinie Karunarathna
  • Hydrological Modelling For Integrated Water Resources Management in a Changing Climate (current)

    Student name:
    Other supervisor: Dr Yunqing Xuan
  • Computational Investigation of flow over gabion spillways. (current)

    Student name:
    Other supervisor: Prof Harshinie Karunarathna
  • Bimodal wave overtopping (current)

    Student name:
    Other supervisor: Prof Harshinie Karunarathna
  • Investigation of saltmarsh impacts on storm wave and surge propagation (current)

    Student name:
    Other supervisor: Prof Harshinie Karunarathna
  • 'Morphodynamic Response of Estuaries to Climate Change' (awarded 2018)

    Student name:
    Other supervisor: Prof Harshinie Karunarathna
  • 'Computational Investigation into the Effects of Bimodal Seas on Wave Overtopping' (awarded 2017)

    Student name:
    Other supervisor: Prof Harshinie Karunarathna

Career History

Start Date End Date Position Held Location
2011 Present Professor of Coastal Engineering College of Engineering, Swansea University
2011 Present Head Energy & Environment Research Group
2008 2009 Associate Dean (Research & Innovation) Faculty of Technology, University of Plymouth
2004 2011 Professor of Coastal Dynamics School of Engineering, University of Plymouth
1999 2003 Professor of Environmental Fluid Mechanics School of Civil Engineering, University of Nottingham
1999 2003 Head Environmental Fluid Mechanics Group, University of Nottingham
1995 1999 Research & Development Manager Maritime Department, Sir William Halcrow & Partners Ltd
1991 1995 Quality Manager Maritime Department, Sir William Halcrow & Partners Ltd.
1989 1999 Senior Scientist/Project Manager Maritime Department, Sir William Halcrow & Partners Ltd.
1985 1989 Section Manager - Environmental Modelling Group Marconi Maritime Applied Research Laboratory, Cambridge, UK

External Responsibilities

  • Member, Editorial Board, Coastal Engineering

    2014 - Present

  • External Examiner, MSc in the Coastal Environment, University of Southampton

    2013 - Present

  • External Examiner, University of the West Indies

    2008 - 2015

  • External Examiner, BEng & MEng Civil Engineering, Heriot-Watt University

    2003 - 2005

  • External Examiner, University of Liverpool

    2001 - 2006

  • Member of the Editorial Board, Water Science and Engineering, Sponsored by Hohai University

    2013 - Present

  • Member of the Editorial Board, ASCE Journal of Waterway, Port, Coastal and Ocean Engineering

    2009 - Present

  • Member of the Editorial Board, Proceedings ICE Maritime Engineering

    2007 - 2011

  • Member of Council, Royal Meteorological Society

    2006 - 2009

  • Member, Steering Group for NERC’s Flood Risk under Extreme Events

    2005 - 2012

  • Chair, Scientific & Organising Committee, 2nd IMA International Conference on Flood Risk, Plymouth

    2005 - 2007

  • Member of the Editorial Board, IMA Mathematics Today

    2003 - 2013

  • Member, Organising Committee, ICE Conference on Coastal Management 2003, Brighton

    2001 - 2003

  • Member, EPSRC Peer Review College

    2000 - 2010

  • Member, Thematic Advisory Group (Estuarine & Coastal Processes), DEFRA/EA Research Programme

    2000 - 2005

  • Member, British National Committee, PIANC

    1997 - 2010

  • Member of Council, Institute of Mathematics and its Applications

    1996 - 2002

Awards And Prizes

Date Description
2016 JAMSTEC Nakanishi Award, (Japan Federation of Ocean Engineering Societies)
1995 International Gustave Willems Prize, (PIANC)
1995 University Research Scholarship, (University of Reading)
1980 Spackman Prize for Mathematics, (King’s College, London)

Invited Presentations, Lectures and Conferences

Date Description
April 2014 ‘Tsunamis’, Bristol Channel Yacht Club, Swansea
April 2014 ‘Long term coastal morphological modelling’, Young Coastal Scientists and Engineers Conference 2014, Cardiff University
September 2013 ‘Ensemble modelling for coastal flood risk’, Hohai University, China
March 2013 ‘Ensemble modelling for coastal flood risk assessment’, ICE Wales National Learning to Live with Flooding in Wales Conference
April 2013 ‘Understanding coastal change: Estuary response to sea level rise’, Symposium on the Problems of Small Estuaries, Swansea
January 2013 Encuentro Internacional de Manejo del Riesgo por inundaciones, Instituto de Ingenieria UNAM, Mexico City, Mexico
December 2011 ‘Coastal morphology: Processes, modelling and applications’, 33rd Ocean Engineering Conference, Tainan, Taiwan
November 2011 ‘Semi analytical models of beach evolution’, THESEUS Workshop, Tainan, Taiwan
March 2007 ‘Coastal Flooding’, Joint ICE (Wales) and EPSRC Conference on ‘Flood Risk Management – Recent Developments’, Cardiff
July 2009 ‘Flood risks and port development’, British Ports Association Annual Forum, Plymouth
October 2010 ICE Regional Technical Seminar on Coastal Engineering, University of Plymouth
February 2010 26th International Conference on Seaports and Maritime Transport Integration for a better Future, Alexandria, Egypt
September 2005 ‘The use of coastal data in teaching’, at Channel Coastal Observatory Academics Meeting, National Oceanographic Centre
January 2005 ‘Numerical modelling of beach morphology and its variation’, Keynote Address to 43rd Annual Conference of the Ussher Society
October 2010 SW Environmental Modelling Group & SW British Hydrological Society Meeting, Plymouth
April 2003 ‘Probabilistic modeling of nearshore morphodynamics and shoreline changes’ – Summer School Workshop ‘Coastal Zone 03, Lubiatowo
April 2002 ‘Wave energy dissipation on barred equilibrium beaches’, Department of Civil Engineering, National University of Singapore
February 2001 'Climate change and coastal processes', Forum of Qatari Engineers and the Ministry of Municipal affairs and Agriculture, Qatar
February 2001 'Climate change and coastal processes', College of Mathematical Sciences, Sultan Qaboos University, Oman
February 2001 College of Marine Science and Department of Civil Engineering, Sultan Qaboos University, Oman
January 2001 'An inverse technique for source reconstruction in a coastal evolution equation', Proudman Oceanographic Laboratory, Birkenhead
July 2000 'Inverse methods for coastal morphology', Department of Civil Engineering, National University of Singapore, Singapore
April 2000 'Time to rock and stop the rollers', IMA Conference on Mathematics in Engineering, Loughborough
April 2000 National Center for Computational Hydroscience and Engineering, The University of Mississippi, USA
September 1999 Anglian Coastal Authorities Group - 'Long-term evolution of the Yarmouth sandbanks', Gt Yarmouth


Image 1

Research projects

  • iCOAST: Integrated coastal sediment systems
  • THESEUS: Innovative coastal technologies for safer European coasts in a changing climate
  • FRMRC 1 & 2: Flood risk management research consortium
  • EPIRUS: Ensemble prediction of inundation risk and uncertainty arising from scour
  • FLOODsite: Integrated flood risk analysis and management methodologies

Image 4 Japan

 Image 6 Slapton

Image 2 

Image 3

Image 5 Maldives


Pevensey  Beach Management (2013)

Advice on assessment of beach management options along Pevensey Bay.

Climping Beach Erosion Study (2010-11)

Desk study and analysis of the impacts of Elmer Breakwater Scheme for Roger Maddrell Consulting Ltd.

Geobag Hydraulic Tests (2010-2011)

Laboratory tests of sediment retention by geobags and report for Geomarine Land Ltd.

National Flood Risk Assessment (NaFRA) (2009)

Member of review panel for the 2009 assessment, for DEFRA/EA

Exe Estuary Management Study (2007-2008)

Mathematical modelling of shoreline and estuarine morphology for a strategic study for the Devon Shoreline Partnership, in collaboration with Halcrow Group.

Colwyn Bay Beach Response Modelling (2006-2007)

Mathematical modeling of shoreline response for a groyne scheme study for Conwy County Borough Council, in collaboration with Coastal Engineering UK Ltd.

Great Yarmouth Sandbanks Assessment (2006-2007)

Statistical analysis of historical bathymetry charts of the Gt Yarmouth sandbanks. Ensemble forecasting of their future evolution up to 50 years into the future, and probabilistic assessment of channel navigability and dredging requirements, for International Port Holdings plc.

Risk Assessment for Coastal Erosion (2005-2006)

Involved a technical review of risk methodology; development of new statistical risk assessment techniques and preparation of a short report for DEFRA.

Estuary Research Project Phase 2 (2004-2006)

Involved the development of new hybrid estuary morphological evolution models and associated Boolean methods for an estuary simulator together with preparation of technical reports for DEFRA.

Peer review of Foresight Flood and Coastal Defence Draft Project Reports (2003)

Technical review of the project reports together with preparation of a short review report for the Office of Science & Technology (DTI).

Investigation into Sheerness Tidal Predictions (2003)

Review of investigations into the performance of the Sheerness tidal predictions used for management of the Thames Barrier, Halcrow Group Ltd.

Estuaries Research Programme Phase 2 (2002)

Review of Phase 1 work and recommendations for Phase 2, DEFRA/Environment Agency.

Coastal Concerted Action Vision (2001-2002)

Chair of the Vision Group responsible for developing a Coastal Vision Document for the Chairman of the River, Estuarine & Coastal Thematic Advisory Group, DEFRA/EA. 

Sarah Jane Offshore Windfarm Study (2002)

Analysis and prediction of decadal fluctuations in sandbank morphology at Gt Yarmouth, Halcrow Group Ltd.

Humber Historical Analysis (2001- 2003)

PI for this project to perform advanced statistical analyses on historical bathymetry charts of the Humber Estuary, as part of the larger Humber Strategy Programme funded by the Environment Agency.

Coastal Concerted Action (2001)

Report to the Chairman of the River, Estuarine & Coastal Thematic Advisory Group, (DEFRA/EA), Mouchel Consulting Ltd, 2001.

Freiston Shore - Saltmarsh rehabilitation scheme (1999)

Advisor on numerical modelling on a multidisciplinary project involving managed set-back over recently reclaimed land and recreating a tidal saltmarsh.

Second Penang Crossing (1999)

Derivation of extreme marine conditions for preliminary design

Wirral Cluster (1999)

Review of design for outfalls at Wallasey, Bromborough and Birkenhead

Uig Pier Upgrade Study, Isle of Skye, Scotland (1998)

Responsible for wave modelling study to provide design conditions for upgrading the ferry pier at Uig

Sohar Port Study, Oman (1998)

Responsible for wave, tide and sediment transport modelling to optimise breakwater and port layouts for a new port at Sohar.

Fylde Coastal Outfall (1998)

Review of survey and design procedures following failure of pipeline

Kesrouan Coastal Wastewater Project, Lebanon (1998)

Responsible for modeling studies supporting the design of a long sea outfall and treatment works

West Coast Coal Facility, New Zealand (1998)

Review of wave conditions for a proposed coal export terminal at Granity

Dubai Marine Hotel Beach Damage Study (1998)

Assessment of the construction of new breakwater on beach erosion

Punte Del Else Outfall Study, Uruguay (1998)

Responsible for wave modelling to determine design conditions for a 3km long sea outfall and pipeline stability calculations.